BRASIL ESPLÊNDIDO: INSIDE PATBO'S SPRING 2027 SHOW AT NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

The last official show of NYFW's Spring/Summer 2027 season went up against the Williamsburg Bridge, not a blank-box studio. PatBO staged "Brasil Esplêndido" — Splendid Brazil — at Domino Square on September 15, 2026, closing out the calendar on the same waterfront where Domino Sugar once refined the cane that, centuries earlier, was one of Brazil's first exports to the world. Whether or not the parallel was intentional, it's hard to miss: a Brazilian brand ending New York's fashion calendar on the site where Brazilian raw material once fed an American industry, this time showing the finished, designed, credited version instead.

A GARDEN, NOT A POSTCARD

The collection's reference point was specific rather than scenic: Roberto Burle Marx, the Brazilian landscape architect whose sinuous, organic garden layouts reshaped how the country's public spaces looked in the twentieth century. "The idea wasn't just about plants, but translating how Brazilian modernists organized nature," Bonaldi said of the collection. In Portuguese, she put the stakes in more personal terms: "Levar a PatBO para Nova York é sempre um momento muito especial, mas, nesta temporada, existe um sentimento ainda mais forte de pertencimento. Esta coleção nasce do Brasil, da sua exuberância, das suas paisagens" — bringing PatBO to New York is always a special moment, but this season carries an even stronger sense of belonging: this collection is born from Brazil, from its exuberance, from its landscapes.

That translated into a show that opened with white, plumage-trimmed separates before moving through stripes and black minidresses, with botanical prints running across puffed-sleeve jackets, bermudas, bikinis and embroidered, crocheted, sequin-fringed blouses. Structured peplums and rigid hip-height ruffles were built to reference Burle Marx's garden forms directly, worn over denim and low-waist maxi skirts. A recurring "Wave Maré" motif, rendered in blue tones, ran through both the prints and — via a collaboration with LEONI and KEUNE — the hair styling, echoing the same curves and movement across the whole presentation.

NEW PROPORTIONS, SAME HANDWORK

Where the show pushed PatBO's design language furthest was in proportion. Reviewers described exaggerated silhouettes balancing voluminous sleeves against structured, body-skimming bodices, alongside modular pieces designed to be detached or adjusted by the wearer — a more architectural, fluid-line vocabulary than PatBO's past collections, positioned deliberately between eveningwear and resortwear rather than squarely in either.

The handwork stayed constant even as the shapes changed: hand embroidery and beadwork scaled up to fit the new structural forms, with metallic threadwork and tonal beading worked onto both sheer mesh and heavier linen bases — the same artisanal foundation the brand has built its identity on, stretched to cover a broader range of silhouette than before.

THE FIRST EYEWEAR LINE

"Brasil Esplêndido" doubled as a launch platform: PatBO's first eyewear collection, produced entirely in Italy, debuted on the runway ahead of an October 2026 retail launch. It's a category extension that follows the brand's earlier moves into shoes and bags, and continues a pattern that's been building since Bonaldi introduced ready-to-wear under the PatBO name in 2012 — an expansion from occasion dressing toward a fuller lifestyle offering, without changing who's actually making it: the same ateliers responsible for the brand's hand-beading and embroidery.

WHO WAS THERE

The front row included Kelly Piquet, Jordanna Maia, jewelry designer Kendra Scott and Paula Saric, alongside what organizers described as a wider circle of international fashion figures — attendance that continues to track with PatBO's status as the only Brazilian label on NYFW's official calendar, a distinction it has held every season since its 2021 debut, including its "Alma Latina" show in September 2025 and "Brazilian Bohemian" in February 2026.

HOW IT LANDED

Critical reception was mixed rather than unanimous. The Impression's review desk scored the collection 6.4 out of 10 — respectable, not a rave — while WWD's coverage focused on the proportion shift itself, framing the collection as PatBO testing new structural ground rather than repeating its established codes. Read together, the reviews suggest a brand mid-experiment: confident enough in its embroidery and beading to stretch them across bigger, more architectural shapes, but not yet unanimously convinced critics that the stretch fully lands.

What isn't in dispute is the scale behind it. PatBO now operates in more than 26 countries, off a New York flagship it has held since 2021, and "Brasil Esplêndido" adds eyewear to a growing list of categories — ready-to-wear, swim, footwear, bags — all still routed through the same Brazilian ateliers that hand-embroidered the brand's earliest pieces. Whatever the review scores say about this particular season's silhouettes, the infrastructure behind them keeps expanding.

It also means the eyewear line arrives with more riding on it than a runway accessory usually does. Categories like bags and shoes tend to be a fashion house's highest-margin, most repeat-purchase products — the ones that keep a customer buying between full seasonal collections. An Italian-made sunglasses line, timed to a show with this much press attention, reads less like a styling choice for the runway and more like the next deliberate step in turning PatBO from a ready-to-wear label with occasional accessories into a full lifestyle brand with its own retail gravity. Whether "Brasil Esplêndido" is remembered as the season PatBO's silhouettes fully landed or the one where they were still finding their footing, the eyewear launch is the part of this show built to outlast the reviews.

Sources & further reading

• WWD, "PatBo Spring 2027: Brazilian Modernism Featuring New Shapes and Proportions"
• The Impression, "Patbo Spring 2027 Fashion Show"
• ELLE Brasil, "NYFW: PatBo, verão 2027"
• Glamurama, "PatBO leva paisagismo brasileiro à NYFW com a coleção Brasil Esplêndido"
• Portal IN, "Brasil Esplêndido: PatBO apresenta nova coleção na New York Fashion Week e estreia linha de eyewear"
• Archynewsy, "PatBo Spring 2027: Brazilian Modernism & New Proportions"
• PatBO on Instagram — Brasil Esplêndido show reel
• PatBO on Instagram — Brasil Esplêndido show photos
• Exame, "Patrícia Bonaldi, a estilista mineira que conquistou o closet de Beyoncé, JLo e Alicia Keys"
• Terra, "Renaissance: grife brasileira fez look de Beyoncé em 60 dias"